Machine Needle-Know How, Pictures
© 2001 The Taunton
Press Inc. Reprinted with permission from issue no. 94
of THREADS magazine, Box 5506, Newtown,
CT 06470-5506. To order a copy of
THREADS call 1-800-888-8286.
How is a Stitch formed?
The formation of a stitch begins when the
needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its lowest point. The bobbin hook
then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin thread. The thread is then pulled up into the
fabric, completing the stitch.
Metallic (Metafil and Metallica) needle
Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic threads.Configuration: Has universal or
standard point; large, elongated eye; and large groove to allow fragile metallic
and synthetic filament threads to flow smoothly. Troubleshooting: Metallic
threads are very sensitive to problems in machine:
Tiniest burr on thread path or needle can cause problems.
Hemstitch (wing) needle
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and batiste. Configuration:
Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as you sew. Troubleshooting: Stitch
is more effective when needle returns to same needle hole more than once. If
needle pushes fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.
Twin (double) needle
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching. Configuration: Two
needles I on single shaft produce two rows of stitches. Measurement between
needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch,
embroidery, denim, and Metallica points.
Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance between needles.
Triple needle
Spring needle
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs. Configuration: Has wire
spring. I above point to prevent fabrics:
from riding up onto needle, . eliminating need for presser foot. .
Troubleshooting: Before using, practice free-motion stitching with
heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull
paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety glasses for
free-motion work, since needles often break
Ballpoint and stretch
needles
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for
highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra. Configuration: Both have rounded
points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them.
(Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.) Troubleshooting:
Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch,
and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If
ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
Denim (jeans) needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl. Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole. Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics. Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric (by turning hand crank).
Leather needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts
rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear leather. Most synthetic leathers
require Microtex or sharp needle.
Microtex and sharp needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges;
and heirloom sewing. Configuration: Has an acute point. Troubleshooting:
Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or
even/dual-feed presser
foot.
Quilting (stippling) needle
Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling. Configuration: Has special tapered shaft
to prevent damaging fabrics when stitching multiple layers. Troubleshooting:
Move fabric smoothly without pulling on needle when free-motion stitching to
prevent breaking needle.
Embroidery needle
Uses: Machine
embroidering or embellishing with decorative thread. Configuration: Has
light point (neither sharp nor ballpoint) and enlarged eye to keep decorative
threads from shredding or breaking, and prevent skipped stitches. Troubleshooting:
If thread still shreds on dense or heavily stitched design, use larger size
needle or Metallica needle.
Handicap/self-threading needle
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems. Configuration:
Universal needle
with slip-in threading slot at the eye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back
away from needle before
cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread.
Needle works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew
to check for fabric and needle compatibility.